Showing posts with label venetian. Show all posts
Showing posts with label venetian. Show all posts

Wednesday, June 26, 2013

Purple Silk Venetian Gown

A while ago, I posted some progress on a purple silk Venetian gown. It's done now! I wore this to Coronation recently and got some photos. The silk is actually hot pink shot with blue, so it appears purple.
The bodice is fully supported with canvas interlining and steel boning. The gown is also worn over a corset and camicia, as well as a taffeta underskirt. The front insert is made from a small piece of silk brocade - a scrap - that I inherited. The bodice is hand beaded, and I also made a new girdle / belt and a linen partlet. The sleeves are re-used from my last Venetian gown because I love them and they match!

I made this one regular height - no chopines for me! I love my chopines, but man, I'm too clutzy to stand around in them all day!







Thursday, June 13, 2013

Striped Venetian Gown: The Beginning

I wanted to make some more late period garb to wear around casually (Okay, HA!HA! it's totally formal, but I still intend to wear it "casually"). I had this awesome fabric I inherited in remnant pieces. Because I am both small and short, there was enough to piece together a gown for me! And...well, it looks remarkably like this late period Venetian gown, so I'm sort of cosplaying these portraits, combining elements of both.



Here are the bodice and sleeve pieces for this striped Venetian closed front gown. The bodice pieces have an outer layer sewn to a linen lining and canvas interlining. The two linings were first sewn together and stitched with boning channels, and the boning is inserted: 1 in center front, 2 diagonal from bottom front to armpits, 2 at sides of front, 2 at sides of back.


Tuesday, May 28, 2013

Venetian Gown Progress

I've been working on a new Venetian gown! How did this come to be, you may ask? Well, a while back, I came upon this fabulous dupioni silk. It's hot pink shot with blue, so it appears different shades of purple-ish depending on the light and angle. I got a deal on the remainder from the bolt and set it aside, wondering what should I make it into. A wonderful fantasy gown for my collection, perhaps? A fabulous fanciful historical gown for myself? Finally, fanciful Venetian gown won! I don't have a portrait of anyone wearing this color, but it makes me really happy. I have seen mention of shot fabrics in period, and they did have pinks and blues. And, yes, various qualities of silk did exist, not only smooth silk. Smooth silk, however, would have been preferred, as it was (and is!) more costly and higher class ish.

Enough of my rambling. The gown is a basic bodice pattern with an open V in front. The ladder lacing goes through some lacing rings I stitched to the inside. I wear a corset underneath, but I still added boning to the bodice to maintain the shape. The skirt is cartridge pleated, which I did in the library one day! I reinforce my cartridge pleats, when the fabric is so thin, with a satin ribbon. I did some hand beading on the bodice, and the insert is silk lined in linen with an interlining, the same as the bodice itself. The insert will be pinned to my camicia when worn.

It's almost done! I actually just need to make a petticoat! I'm going to wear my old cutwork sleeves for now - or go sleeveless when it's warm.




Friday, May 3, 2013

Realm of Venus Showcase

I'm really honored to be this month's featured costumer on Realm of Venus! For anyone who doesn't know, Realm of Venus is a really cool website dedicated to Italian Renaissance costume research. They do periodical showcases for costumers who have created lovely Italian Renaissance outfits, and I'm really excited to be a part of it!

You can see the showcase here:
http://realmofvenus.renaissanceitaly.net/yourgarb/2013/DaisyV.htm

The gown I have featured is my 1490s Italian Renaissance dress made of red velvet and brocade, in the Venetian style. This is my favorite Italian Renaissance style! I included a few pictures below, but please check out the showcase (link above) for all of the photos and the information!




Saturday, February 2, 2013

16th Century Venetian Lady Garb

I got some nice photos of my gown at 12th Night! I've been meaning to take good photos of this, but I rarely wear it since I am normally pretty active at SCA events. I do really love it though, and 12th Night was the perfect event for it!

This is the late 16th c. Venetian gown I made for myself. The chemise, or cam­i­cia, is made of white linen. The corset is white silk and fully boned with reed, com­plete with hand-stitched bon­ing chan­nels. The part­let is white lace in a Venet­ian style pat­tern with a stand-up col­lar around the back. The gown itself is made of bur­gundy silk/rayon blend vel­vet with sleeves and con­trast­ing hem made of blue silk dupi­oni. I did all of the cut­work pat­terns in the silk by hand. The skirt is car­tridge pleated onto the bodice, which laces with Venet­ian style lad­der lac­ing. The gown is accented with jew­elry and a flag fan, also all made by me. In addi­tion, I cre­ated chopines, tall plat­form shoes. My chopines are made from cork with fab­ric dec­o­ra­tion.

More photos here: http://www.faerie-queen.com/burgundy-velvet-venetian-gown/







Wednesday, January 30, 2013

16th Century Venetian Man Garb

I finally have nice photos to share of our late 16th c. Venetian garb! We rarely wear this stuff because my boyfriend and I both prefer running-around / working - friendly garb at SCA events. This post is dedicated to his ensemble, and I shall post mine next.

This is based on fashion from late 16th century Venice, ~1570s. (I mixed and matched inspiration images, as one of my very favorite things about making clothing is the whole design aspect.)
The undershirt is made of white linen and was actually already in his wardrobe.
The doublet is made of red silk with detachable tie-on brocade sleeves.
The hat is black velvet with ostrich feathers.
The pants are black linen, made in the Venetian style.
The coat, or loose gown, is made of silk/rayon blend velvet and lined in black. The slashes in the sleeves show a blue brocade underlayer.

You can see more images here: http://www.faerie-queen.com/venetian-male-ensemble/




Tuesday, February 21, 2012

Queen's Champion

For our recent Queen's Champion tournament, I wore my 1495 Venetian gown. The dress has three layers: the camicia, gamurra, and giornea. My camicia is white linen, my gamurra is brocade, and my giornea is cotton velvet with hand-beaded details.


With Arianna! 

Coloring some scrolls.


Thursday, February 16, 2012

Venetian Male Outfit Construction

Here are some progress pictures from the construction of my boyfriend's 1560s Venetian outfit.
I made his doublet from a new pattern, drafted on his body and based on some extant patterns from Janet Arnold's Patterns of Fashion. His doublet is dupioni silk lined in black linen. The sleeves are brocade, and they attach with ribbon ties. For pants, he has the Venetian style in black linen.





To complete the ensemble, I made an overcoat / loose gown for him. The coat is made from the same velvet as my gown, and it is lined in black silk/rayon blend. I added faux fur trim to the front. The sleeves are slashed, and I made them by cutting strips of my velvet and silk and sewing them together. The undersleeves are brocade, made from the same pattern but without the slashing.






Monday, February 13, 2012

Chopines

Chopines are these amazing platform shoes from the Italian Renaissance. They were quite helpful in keeping skirts out of dirty streets, and as with many things, they grew to become an elaborate fashion item.

I had wanted to make chopines for years, and finally, I got around to it! Oh, I had attempted it before. I tried wood blocks and found that my strength with tools was just not up to par. This time, I went with cork. You need high density cork for this project, and most of it comes in very large blocks that were out of my price range, though they are large enough for several pairs of chopines. I found that my feet were just small enough to fit yoga blocks, so I bought two of those. I began by patterning my shoes and tracing the pattern onto my cork blocks.

Next, I used a handheld power sander to achieve the 2-dimensional shape.


During the next step, I sanded to achieve a 3-dimensional shape. I used a low grit sandpaper to do the initial sanding and cutting away of material. Then I switched to a higher grit for fine sanding and evening things out.


The shoe covers were made of brocade. I patterned them with a lot of extra material, sewed them together, and attached them to the cork block base. I used cotton canvas as my insole.




For my soles, I cut black leather pieces and then attached them with nails. I added some trim to cover my edges and make the shoes look extra pretty. Tada!


Monday, February 6, 2012

Venetian Gown Construction

I wanted to share some of the major steps in the construction of my 1560s Venetian gown.
First, here is my base bodice shape. This is my linen lining, and then I used cotton canvas as an interlining and velvet as the fashion fabric.


This is the bodice all put together. I did the ladder lacing by placing a reinforced strip of fabric covered in evenly spaced grommets just inside the opening on each side of the bodice. The bodice itself has flat steel bones at the front edges, which help to keep it so perfectly straight.


My sleeves! I did cutwork for the sleeves, as well as the bottom hem of the dress. I made a stencil and then traced it onto the fabric. The cuts were made with a regular pair of scissors.



The sleeves attach to the bodice with ribbon ties. I also edged the sleeves with Venetian lace. Here, I've also added a front insert, which covers my corset. There is some debate on whether the corset goes under or over the chemise, but in every other period I've researched, the corset is always over the chemise. It's more practical that way, and I don't see why it should be any different here. Plus, there are some images that show partlets going all the way down to waist level, perhaps covering the corset. Who knows, maybe they did it both ways.


And the full gown! I made a partlet out of Venetian lace. The skirt is cartridge pleated by the traditional method. I tried a shortcut that I do for knife pleats but found that the traditional method was faster. Maybe I've just cartridge pleated so many skirts that it's not so bad anymore!


Thursday, February 2, 2012

1560s Venetian Court Gown

My most recent -big- project was a Venetian court gown from the 1560s. This was a very ambitious project, probably the most ambitious garb I've made to date, but it's something I've always wanted to do. I completed it in time for coronation in November. Our current Queen of Caid is Venetian, so it was the perfect opportunity.

I will create more posts to highlight the construction process, as well as some individual elements. To begin, I would like to share a couple photos from coronation, along with a list of the pieces involved in the garb.

My dress consists of the following pieces:
-chemise/camicia
-corset
-underskirt
-gown
-detachable sleeves
-front corset cover insert
-partlet
-jewelry - necklaces, earrings, girdle
-flag fan
-chopines

To match my gown, I also made a full Venetian outfit for my boyfriend. His consists of:
-undershirt/smock
-doublet
-detachable sleeves
-Venetian pants
-hose
-hat with feather
-overcoat / loose gown