I recently made my first sideless surcote. This is patterned velvet with a skirt of black silk/rayon blend. It was pretty simple to make, and I would love to do more in the future. This style is based on late 14th century French sources.
In these pictures, I am wearing my surcote over a brocade/jacquard kirtle, with a horned veil headdress, all of which I also made, of course!
More pictures here: http://www.faerie-queen.com/black-sideless-surcote/
And you can see the kirtle here: http://www.faerie-queen.com/15th-century-brocade-kirtle/